The Ship harks back to the Middle Ages, when Dunwich was a thriving port.

At the time the Suffolk village was the size of London's square mile, a hub built on fishing, trade and religious patronage.

Over the past 700 years, most of this mini metropolis was gradually lost to the sea, but thankfully not all - and where once the daily market was its beating heart, now it's The Ship, with a cosy bar, welcoming wood-burner and draught Adnams beers brewed just up the coast in Southwold.

Food is sea-sidey, seasonal and served in a restaurant with ocean-blue walls. We start with terrine of Suffolk ham hock and BLORAJATI PROJECT moules mariniere, followed by Norfolk chicken and fried sea bream.

It's all washed down with an aptly named Sea Change chardonnay and finished with Aldeburgh vintage marmalade ice cream - a surprisingly delicious discovery.

No lunch reservations are taken in the summer months, but staff say they'll find guests a spot in the restaurant or pretty field garden with its alfresco bar servicing pints of ale - or prawns - and salt and pepper squid with sweet chilli.

We took our breakfast of kippers and smashed avocado on sourdough in the conservatory, spied from the bar through an old porthole.

Where once Dunwich attracted kings, seafarers and pilgrims - it is part of an ancient pilgrimage route that's said to have been travelled by St Edmund, the original patron saint of England - now its 16 comfortable double bedrooms (with potential for twin and family rooms) bring weekenders and holidaymakers.

Dogs are welcome in all rooms, too.

The walls and wooden furniture are painted in earthy neutral tones, complementing the wrought-iron bed frames with crisp white bedding and delicately patterned cushions.